In today’s world, the external appearance of people has become more important than the appearance of the whole body. Physical appearance plays a strong role and has started to gain importance in the development of various products. Now we need to be well-groomed. Hair, which is defined as an accessory and outermost layer of the skin, is of particular importance for health and beauty. As mentioned in the well-known saying, hair is an indicator of individual integrity. Although it has a cosmetic appearance, hair is an essential part of personal grooming. It has anatomical and physiological functions to reduce wear and tear on the head (skull), provides up to 30% protection in case of impact and prevents heat loss from the body.
The use of hair gel is widespread among men and women. The specifications differ according to the needs and preferences of consumers; however, solvents, thickeners and conditioning agents are among the ingredients commonly used in the compositions of gels. Although many people express positive opinions about using such formulas for hair, gels can have negative effects on hair health depending on their negative impact on the physical properties of the hair surface. This review aims to discuss the beneficial and harmful effects of using hair gel on human hair health.
Overview of hair gel usage
The type of hair coating and the coating process also have an impact on hair health. Hair typically has a hydrophobic surface, and many mechanisms of hair gel deposition depend primarily on the penetration of the gel into the hair shaft, which partially fixes the gel in place. In particular, damage could occur if the gel used is a non-volatile organic chemical or an emulsion with a particle size significantly larger than the hair diameter, among other factors. Rinsing out hair gel or removing it through shampoo have their own mechanisms, and the effectiveness of these gel removal processes is an important factor in hair health. A permanent hair coating that polymerizes or crosslinks the hair gel avoids these problems. Likewise, the use of organogelators that turn the gel into a stiff but water-soluble solid avoids these health concerns. However, these ingredients require complex chemical processing of the hair gel and are not easy for the consumer to apply.
Individuals often use hair gel to keep their hair in shape. Types of hair gel range from light to heavy, with the heavy gel providing a firm hold. The process of hair gel deposition and removal is very attractive. Gel deposition can meet specific style-oriented needs, such as controlling the direction of the hair. Hair gel removal can be achieved by rinsing with water or shampooing. In all hair gel applications, the potential ability of the hair gel to either damage the hair or maintain its health is important. Hair damage includes the unwanted removal of certain hair components and the breakage and/or splitting of the hair shaft. The effects of hair gel on hair health depend on the hair type, the type of gel used and its removal process, and application scenarios (including how often the hair is washed).
Composition of hair gel
First of all, an ingredient such as maleic acid or citric acid in hair gels can cause the hair surface to shift and etch, making it easier to separate from the roots due to surface tension. The duration of hair gel application plays a crucial role in the appearance of hair. In this research, the benefit of hair shedding is used to demonstrate the consequences of hair gel application, which can help reduce damage to hair appearance. Overall, this research contributes to six aspects of human hair under different hair gel conditions and helps reduce the unknown defects that may be caused by hair gel. It also provides a reference for the appropriate application of hair gels and addresses the contradiction between hair appearance and health.
Hair gel, also known as hair cream or styling gel, is one of the most important hair care products for women and men. It helps to style hair and especially control unruly hair. The effect of hair gel is mainly achieved by its ingredients such as sorbitol, which has a hydrophilic property, and food-grade sodium benzoate, which acts as a preservative. It is still unknown whether these ingredients can cause any side effects on hair. The scalp damage caused by three hair gels includes erythema and edema, as found in the histopathological results. However, the effects of hair gel on hair cortex and cuticle were not studied. In this research, eleven hair gels were selected, which mainly differ in pH values and application duration. According to our research, the hair gels applied in vivo etch the hair surfaces, but the resulting scales on the hair cuticle reduce the extent of damage.
Alcohols in hair gel
Hair gel formulations are complex. However, some basic ingredients are present in many formulations: water, polymers, surfactants, preservatives, fragrances, dyes, conditioning agents and other chemicals such as vitamins or minerals. Despite their water solubility and the ability to dissolve in water, polymers deposit on the hair fiber, promoting changes in its arrangement or blocking interactions. This deposition occurs as a result of sticky products such as gels or sprays, which are mainly composed of film-forming polymers. The action of the polymer therefore depends on the type of polymer present in the composition. Consumers use gels to promote flexible or hard fixation, depending on the amount applied and their composition. Despite choosing the right products, there is an interest in the scientific community in understanding the negative effects on hair health. The answer must change habits when using this type of product. A large number of gels contain alcohols, mainly ethyl, isopropyl, hexyl and butane alcohols. These alcohols are commonly used in hair product formulations because they can prevent the rapid and unwanted evaporation of these products. However, it is known that continuous use can lead to destructive effects on the scalp and hair.
Usually, people use gel as recommended, wasting a lot of money in the process and damaging the hair. However, the end result of using this type of product largely depends on the quality of the gel. Hair gel is usually presented in the form of a substance that is mainly composed of the following compounds: water, carbohydrates, polymers, propylene glycol, parabens, glycol and alcohol. In the product, we add a considerable amount of ingredients and the components of this amount have different effects on our hair or scalp. Some of these compounds are beneficial for hair health, others cause significant damage. In general, any hair product becomes a health concern for some scientific studies when one or more types of alcohol are included in the composition. This study aims to discuss the negative effects of gel on hair health.
Corrosive chemicals
In the study, it was observed that an increase in hair treatment time and temperature was associated with an increase in the effects on the mechanical properties of the hair. It was also suggested that there is enzyme enhancement in the hair matrix and that the presence of disulfide bonds in the structure of the hair is affected by an increase in temperature. It was reported that the hair surface and roots open when hair dye or perm preparations are applied at higher temperatures. Various oxidative hair dye products were found to have damaging effects on hair. The cuticle was drier and had lower cysteine content, and the log K values were high. This chemical damage was not only concentrated in the cuticle layer, but the pigment molecules embedded through the cortex were also significantly destroyed. Therefore, we can suggest that the cuticle plays an important role in the corrosive effects.
Corrosive chemicals cause various changes to hair including, but not limited to, flaking, cracking, breakage, and overall loss of shine. Damage has been shown to occur after 24 hours with 4.8 M urea, 1 M potassium thioglycolate, 2.5 M guanidine hydroxide, and 1 M ammonium thioglycolate. Higher concentrations of chemicals have been found to be more damaging to hair and temperature has little effect on damage. In our study, they tended to be associated with more flaking and breakage. Additionally, urea has been found to be used as an emollient in shampoos. The effects of hair coloring treatments on hair have been evaluated in numerous studies, and hair coloring has been found to be the most important factor causing hair damage. Generally, hair damage from hair coloring includes cuticle roughness, changes in the hair surface, removal of the cuticle layer, damage to the cortex, a reduction in the strength of the cuticle and cortex, and fibril disruption.
Effects on hair and scalp health
Hair gels are water-soluble products used to provide texture and hold for many hair types. Hair gels work by coating the hair with thickening polymers or resins that hold the fibers together in the desired shape. The positive and negative influence of other ingredients contained in hydroalcoholic hair gels can additionally significantly affect the health of the hair and/or scalp. Hair gel removal is important because leaving hair gels containing these ingredients behind can reduce visual clarity and leave a sticky, sticky residue or a white crust on the scalp. The dermatophytes responsible for conditions such as tinea versicolor and tinea corporis often depend on the presence of oleic acid or other fatty acids to penetrate the body surface barrier and attach themselves. Expertise in the chemical and physical properties of hair styling ingredients is necessary to maximize the performance and stability of the finished product and maintain hair and scalp health.
The use of hair styling gels to shape hair has become popular among men and women of all ages. Hair gels are typically highly viscous formulations made with one or more polymeric film formers and dissolved with water and alcohol mixtures. The most popular polymeric film formers include modified natural polymers such as hydroxyethyl and hydroxypropyl cellulose, and synthetic polymers such as PVP or PVA. These polymers are typically manufactured as water-soluble products that form a clear solution or stable emulsion when alkyl or aromatic alcohols are used as solvents. Minor structural ingredients such as carboxylic acid salts, nonionic surfactants, solvents or thickeners, fragrances, and gelling agents are often included in the formulation to improve rheological behavior, increase stability, and enhance aesthetic appeal. Contact of synthetic polymers, humectants, and dyes, often found in hair gels, with the hair and scalp can have a variety of positive and negative effects.
Dehydrating effects
The scalp is of particular interest when it comes to damage to the skin barrier function in the stratum corneum due to prolonged and excessive use of surfactant-containing gels. The irritation that occurs with the use of surfactants and co-surfactants is often associated with symptoms such as itching and loss of skin moisture. Surfactant irritation is also known to be associated with a reduction in barrier functionality, resulting in increased sensitivity. Healthy skin offers certain protective mechanisms against allergen penetration, but prolonged and repeated exposure to surfactants can synergize with allergen exposure and increase the risk of sensitization, as surfactants are involved in skin cleansing and thus remove all highly effective allergen transporters as well as skin surface lipids that block pathogen access.
A combination of surfactants and co-surfactants is used in the formulation of hair gels to achieve the desired consistency, texture and formation of the hair gel. Due to the lack of effective skin and hair conditioning ingredients, many gel and cream-type products can have a drying effect and strip essential protective skin or hair lipids from the skin and hair. This moisture-stripping side effect is less pronounced in shampoo formulations as their contact time with the scalp is relatively short before being thoroughly rinsed off. However, compared to shampoos, hair gel products have extended contact with the scalp as hair gels are formulated to remain on the hair and scalp for a longer period of time.
Reduction of sebum production
It seems that consumption of n-alkanes is associated with higher sebum production. In fact, higher sebum production would be more inclined to restore the lipid outlines removed by washing or astringent ingredients. It follows that the increase in lubrication provided by such cosmetics tends to reduce sebum levels. Since knowledge of sebum changes could be used to evaluate the effectiveness of treatments for oily hair, a product must provide or improve local moisturizing benefits, and any measure to improve the hydrophobicity of the hair could be useful to control sebum production. It could be interesting to study differences in the ability of hair cosmetics to form a lipid layer. Some of the most powerful additional products could affect the hair’s ability to mimic the tips of the cyclodextrins in a urine management element. They stimulate a homogeneous appearance with natural shine on the hair surface, without oily deposits. There are many types of sebum-regulating ingredients, but all of these substances are unlikely to produce reliable effects.
The contradictory results observed regarding the effect of the use of hair cosmetics on the reduction of sebum production may be due to the lack of proper characterization of the subjects. According to the information obtained from the label by other authors, all products characterized as for dry or very dry hair had a negative effect on sebum production, in other words, they promoted sebum reduction or had no effect on sebum evaluated by sebumetry, regardless of the method used. Nevertheless, some formulations have been characterized and showed positive effects by promoting sebum production and good hydration levels, and are recommended for users of hair gels. Bunifu Gambahaya has shown that talc increases scalp sebum levels by more than 10% compared to the untreated area. Other authors have also found that talc, among other commonly used ingredients in hair gels, is a sebum-regulating substance, with a sebum control efficacy of about 50% at 500 μg/cm2 and a maximum effect at 800 μg/cm2.
Common hair problems caused by hair gel
Hair gel hardens and stiffens hair, which is why hair becomes hard and stiff after using hair gel. The film-forming nature of some ingredients, such as the cationic polymers used in hair gels, further contributes to the hardness and rigidity of the hair shaft. The stiffening and hardening effects may be attractive for certain hairstyles, but they weaken hair and cause hair damage over time as hair becomes stiffer. Loss of hair flexibility results in hair fibers with reduced resilience and increased fragility, leading to hair breakage.
Ideally, hair gel should be applied to hair and then rinsed off or combed through when necessary. Leaving hair gel on hair or applying more hair gel in layers over pre-existing gel can lead to various hair problems. Damage, hair loss, baldness, hair breakage, split ends, dandruff and oiliness are common hair problems caused by excessive use of hair gel.
Dryness and brittle hair
Studies on the ingredients combined in hair gels have examined which components are the most drying. Ingredients in hair gels have been found to not only increase dryness but also negatively affect the structural proteins of hair such as alpha keratins. Anecdotal personal reports of poor formulations of hair gels may be one of the various factors responsible for reports of hair loss and patches of hair loss on the scalp, particularly chemical damage caused by applying the gel to the hair daily. In response to hair breakage caused by hair gel, intervention for dryness may include deep conditioning agents containing coconut oil, squalene, sunflower oil, niacinamide, and silicone-free blends with extracts from commercially available hair masks containing monoi.
Hair often becomes drier and more prone to breakage when used regularly for styling. Common ingredients in hair gels and hair sprays include ethanol, polyvinylpyrrolidone vinyl acetate, and silicone elastomers; these chemicals, when incorporated into structurally weakened hair, contribute to the drying effects. Rubbing hair gel into the hair can physically deteriorate the hair structure. Once additional complications arise, the hair can further deteriorate into a brittle state, which, if left unattended, makes the hair prone to breakage.
Itchy and flaky scalp
Strong hair gel that contains alcohol is known to dry out the hair shaft and scalp. Instead of a healthy shine, it leaves hair dull and dry. As the hair shaft becomes more fragile, it is more prone to breakage. It can also affect hair follicles by causing damage, scarring, and inflammation if not controlled and regulated. Therefore, shiny hair loss can result from using hair gel. These symptoms can lead to patterns of thinning hair due to hair loss and are fortunately reversible once hair gel use is stopped. Hair health can also be improved naturally by minimizing hair gel use and allowing roots to grow properly. Small hair care routines go a long way. Follow good hair care routines for shiny and beautiful hair. After all, hair gel has the best effect: beautiful hair.
If you notice these symptoms, give your hair and scalp a break. Wash them thoroughly. You can use a variety of common household items such as apple cider vinegar and baking soda as a natural cleanser to remove unwanted chemicals from your hair and scalp. Or you can use specialized products from the store. If you experience itching and flaking with the natural cleaning solution, continue to use the product every 1-2 days until the problem is resolved.
Many people find that they experience scalp irritations such as itching and dry flaking after using hair gel. Scalp irritation is a natural part of consistently using hair styling products such as hair gel. It can simultaneously dry out your scalp and hair if used to the point where you experience an itchy or flaky scalp as some of the ingredients cause excess buildup on your scalp and hair shaft. Over time, these symptoms not only cause your hair to lose its vitality and health, but they also cause problems such as hair loss and hair thinning.
Conclusion
In this work we have highlighted the composition of hair gel products on the market and the effects of hair gel on the properties of keratin. We have found that hair gel formulations are not globally beneficial for hair integrity and hair aging characteristics due to their composition and the frequency with which users apply products to their hair in an excessive or negligent manner. We can also note that each formulation contains a set of ingredients that can have different effects on hair fibers and that companies that intend to formulate gel polymers in this matrix should conduct both in vitro tests on human hair samples and clinical trials. We suggest that in the future more natural and less harmful compounds will be used in the formulations of hair gel products already on the market, which have the same function and effectiveness as gel products with potentially more harmful chemicals.
Hair gels are complex formulations that vary considerably depending on the type of hair for which they are formulated. These products can be great allies in styling and temporarily favor some hair characteristics. However, the excessive use of these products with common formulations on the market can accelerate the hair aging process when exposed to other environmental stressors and compromise the physiological integrity of the hair fibers. The chemical composition of the product, the improper use of the product and the constant need to use other hair treatments can accelerate the gradual loss of hair properties, given the complex interactions that take place between the outer layer of the hair and the treatment product applied.
